When I came across this piece of vintage double knit fabric at the thrift store last week (along with the Super Simple Skirt fabric) I had to scour my pattern stash for a top that I could squeeze out of the 30″x60″ piece of fabric!
In stepped New Look 6894 view C (middle right and bottom right).
I prefer my tops to be fitted so I measured the pattern pieces before choosing a size. I’m a 37″ bust on a good day, usually a size 14/16. The finished garment measurements had 4.5″ of positive ease built in, though! There is no way on this Earth I would cut “my size” in this pattern. I think this pattern with the princess seams and button down front is a more tailored look and wouldn’t look right as a loosely fitted, drapey garment, despite the line drawing showing the ties at the back waist. Not sure what the folks at NL were thinking when they graded sizing on this one. In the end, I settled on the smallest size, 10 with finished bust of 37″ so that my firm knit would be fitted but not pulling at the buttonholes.
I omitted the back waistline ties and managed to lay out the pattern to cut it flat. It was more work but I had nothing but shreads of fabric left. It wouldn’t have been possible on the fold or in one size larger.
It’s interfaced it with a black knit tricot interfacing to ensure that the facings would stretch along with the fabric. Back neck facing is flipped up in this detail shot so you can take a peek. The armholes are finished with self bias, stitched, then zigzag top stitched.
I was only able to match the pattern at center front because I was so short on fabric, but, man, check out that matching! Yeah!
I have a ridiculously large collection of vintage buttons that I picked up at an estate sale last year so I dug through and found this set of navy buttons to finish it off.
They were actually still on the card and I hated to pull them off because they were all there! But I suppose vintage buttons are of no use to me still sewn to the card. I was able to use 6 out of the 12 and still have a nice matched set left for another project.
I know I’ll make this pattern again because I really want that scalloped neckline vesrion but I’ll certainly make some changes for next time. My back neck-to-waist measurement is significantly shorter than most patterns are drafted for and I generally have to shorten any bodice between the shoulder and bust point and then adjust the armscye back down to get a good fit. This time I didn’t do that because the waistline mark on the pattern was fairly close to my measurement since I went down so many sizes. Mistake. Big mistake. Halfway through, I ended up taking it up at the shoulders by at least 5/8″ on both front and back in order to have the princess seams fall correctly at the bust. Now the waist hits just a hair too high and the armscye is too high. It’s wearable but not super comfy. If it weren’t able to flex and move with me thanks to being a knit, it would be destined for the trash can. I’m also not so pleased with the plunging neckline and I have to wear a tank under it to make it appropriate for work. Not sure how I’ll work out that last problem before I delve into another version so it will have to marinate in the pattern drawer for a while so I can think about it.
I’ll leave you with a pic of the piece laying flat in all it’s glory.